We had already been sailing for 1.5 hours. We stopped to reevaluate. Only the sound of dancing water was present as the engine stopped. There was at least 2/3 of the way left. Could we make it? We had already run through a good chunk of the gas. So we decided to call it. Nobody wanted to be drifting around in the freezing cold arctic waters. If something happens then we would be royally f****d.
My original plan was to sail up to a river delta and then walk 30 km through the Greenlandic backcountry to a tourist glacier camp. This plan was now abandoned. Honestly I was a bit disappointed. On the way home we decided to stop and do some fishing instead. Which in Greenland means almost instant catch. Moods were up again.
As I came home I had to come up with a new plan. I only had a few days to do some hiking so there wasn’t really time for thinking. After a night’s sleep in the comforts of a house I ventured out. My plan was simple: Follow the ice fiord until I find a spot I like. The plan worked really well as it was almost failproof. The ice fiord is so spectacular in itself that I could pitch my tent anywhere I wanted and love it.
On my way I stopped several times to take in the view (and catch my breath). The ice fiord is unreal. It is like a giant bathtub filled with ice cubes. Really big ice cubes.
After a good hike I found a peninsula that caught my eye. A perfect places to pitch my tent. There wasn’t really a trail so I scrambled my way forward. The entirety of the area I was in had been covered in ice in the last ice age. This had really shaped the landscape so there wasbig cracks and canyons all over. This and the fact I was wearing a rather big backpack didn't speed up my progress.
To add to that distances in Greenland are always longer than one thinks. One can easily see 100 km because of the clean and dry air. So what I thought would take 15 minutes took up almost an hour before I was on the far tip of the peninsula. But as always it was worth the effort.
I quickly pitched the tent and made my bed. The rest of the day was spent exploring and napping. I didn't really bother shooting photos during the day as I knew the quality of the light would improve x100 in the evening. And it did!
As always around golden hour I found myself jumping around like a mad man to catch all the shots I wanted before the light disappeared. I Greenland though golden hour is more like golden hours due to the midnight sun. But light was slowly fading as the clock turned midnight. I was running around with my remote triggers back and forth adjusting the camera and then doing some modelling. When the light was mostly gone (it never really gets “dark” in the summer) I snug into my slightly too thin sleeping bag and went into dreamland.
As I woke up the entire fiord was covered in a blanket of fog. All different shapes and sizes poked out of the fog. The cold sleeping bag was soon forgotten as the magical view filled my mind. Was I really awake?