Untersberg is a mountain massif that creates a dramatic backdrop to the southwest when strolling through the historic streets of Salzburg. When I first arrived in Salzburg there were two nearby mountains that I immediately knew I had to climb. I can’t live without knowing how it looks like up there. The first one is Gaisberg scaling 1288 masl. which I hiked quickly after arriving in Salzburg on a road trip from Vienna to Salzburg. After being to Salzburg multiple times visiting my girlfriend Untersberg has been looming in the background every time with it’s 1972 masl. peak. Now summer has exchanged winter and the mountain has taken off its white coat. It was time to get up there and satisfy the curiosity. My girlfriend and I made a plan. We did not only want to reach the northern peak called Salzburger Hochthron which is visible from Salzburg - we wanted to continue across the mountain massif and cross into Germany and end in Berchtesgaden effectively traversing the entire Untersberg massif in one day. 25 km and 1700 m elev. gain.
Untersberg looming behind the old city in Salzburg.
We took the bus a few kilometers out of the city towards the foot of the massif. When we jumped off the bus this was the view that met us.
We started hiking up through the dense jungle like forest in the morning sun which was quickly gaining purchase. It was going to be a hot day.
It was a steep climb - especially when not having done any mountain hiking since I crossed the Alps last summer. When leaving the dense forest behind the view opened up - and it was spectacular.
The locals advice not to do the hike in bad weather (rain) as the rock becomes slippery and once you get higher there is a bit of exposure - there were a few memorial plaques on that stretch. On average one person die each year on the mountain. Furthermore 40 people are gone missing and never found on the mountain as well - bring equipment so you are prepared for anything and wear proper footwear. I had my Scarpa Ribelle Lite (maybe a little overkill) on and my girlfriend the Salomon Speedcross 5 (maybe a little underkill).
After the initial climb the landscape flattened - but the terrain was still very rugged. It was not an easy hike from there.
There are three mountain huts along the way where you can get food and drinks at fair prices. Two close to Salzburger Hochthron (northern peak) and one near Berchtesgadener Hochthron (southern peak). Sit down and enjoy the view while enjoying an Apfelschorle (apple juice with sparkling water). It is also possible to stay in the huts overnight.
After Berchtesgadener Hochthron it is mostly downhill towards Berchtesgaden. Once you reach Berchtesgaden there are plenty of places to grab a cold beer or radler (beer with lemonade) to celebrate. There is an hourly bus or train service that can take you back to Salzburg if you need to.
Click on the image to see the activity on Strava.
Once back in the city it is a very satisfying feeling to look back up on the mountain knowing you were there a handful of hours ago - and went there under the power of your own body.
Gallery
Shot on a mix of iPhone and Sony A6500.
