Adventure

Chamonix: The Best Failure of My Life /  by Gustav Thuesen

Sometimes you bite off more than you can chew. Setting out to cross the French alps on foot was too much for my feet.

My feet definitely wasn't conditioned for heavy trail use after about a year of cycling training. I pushed hard as my legs were fine and my overall cardiovascular shape was alright. But the chain isn't stronger than its weakest link - which this time were my feet (I'll save you for showing photos of them). After about 100 km in 4 days I reached Chamonix and decided to call it.

I reached Chamonix almost the same time as a storm and was basically stuck in my tent for two full days - partly due to the weather and partly due to my feet. After a few days of semi-forced rest I decided to stick around and explore Chamonix. That turned out to be a great experience! Glaciers, rivers, forest, mountain views, snow - what a place!

After little over a week in the Chamonix valley I decided to go home. Originally the plan was to catch a plane in Nice by the mediterranean sea but ended up going back to Geneva. This wasn't the trip I set out to do - and it was hard not to finish what I had started. Nonetheless it ended up being one of the best trips of my life. The French alps are still there - and I'm watching them as I'm getting better at chewing.      

Bikepacking Scandinavia: Gear List /  by Gustav Thuesen

Bike

Canyon Ultimate CF SL Disc 6.0

HUNT 4Season Gravel Wheels

Schwalbe G-One Speed Tires

Shimano SPD Pedals

Apidura Seatpack

DIY Framebag

Nalgene Koozie modified into a feedbag. Fits a plate of Marabou (cold weather) or a bag of gummies (warm weather). 

Alpkit Drybag (mounted with 2 Voilé straps)

Blue Force Gear Medium Horizontal Utility Pouch

3 bottle cages, 2 mounted to the fork with electrical tape and one under the down tube.

2 rear lights

 

Clothing

On-bike:

Rapha Lightweight Bibshort

Rapha Training Jersey

Rapha Thermal Leg Warmers

Rapha Brevet Long Sleeve Windblock Jersey

Rapha Merino Socks (1 pair)

Rapha Hi-Vis Oversocks

POC Octal Helmet

Pas Normal Studios Cap

Scott MTB Shoes

Specialized Gloves

Oakley EvZero Stride, Road Prizm Lens

 

Off-bike: 

Arc’teryx Gamma Rock Pant

Arc’teryx Alpha FL Jacket (also used on bike in rain)

Icebreaker Merino Shirt (200)

Point6 Light Socks (1 pair)

Patagonia Nano Puff

Merino Buff

1 pair of underwear (yes, one)

Paul Smith Swimshorts (you gotta look good when taking your evening swim...)

 

Cooking & Water

Alpkit Kraku Stove

Alpkit MytiMug (titanium, 750 ml)

LightMyFire Spork Titanium (the plastic version breaks just by looking at it…)

110ml gas (I think I used 3 on the entire trip)

Lighter + fire steel

3 x 500 ml Rapha/Camelbak bidons

 

Hygiene

Toothbrush

Toothpaste

Sea to Summit Wilderness Wash

Tiny microfiber towel

Sunscreen (the hefty kids’ version)

Vaseline

 

Electronics

iPhone 5s (used as map/GPS with the ViewRanger app)

Anker PowerCore 10000

Dual port USB charger (charge two devices from a single outlet)

Bose SoundSport Headset (great sound and you are still able to hear your surroundings).

Black Diamond Spot Headlamp (when riding really late, bad weather or tunnels - it was light 22 hours a day)

 

Camera

Nikon D750

Nikon 50mm f1.8 (on the camera)

Nikon 24-70mm f2.8 with pol filter (in the bag)

2 batteries + charger

Sirui T-025X Tripod

(bought an airblower as I got some dirt on the sensor)

 

Repair & Maintenance

2 x Conti Racelight 28 Spare Tubes (had ZERO punctures, so didn’t use them)

Cable ties

Leatherman Juice

Topeak Mini Pro 20 Multitool

BBB Tire-Levers 

Birzman Zacoo Mini Pump

Genuine Innovations Tubeless Tyre Repair Kit

Rema Tip Top Tubeless Repair Kit

Park-Tool TB-2C Emergency Tire Boot (didn't use but would have enabled me to get to the next town with a blown sidewall). 

Chain Quick-Link

2 Spare Spokes

2 Spare Brake Pads (didn't use. started on a fresh pair which were about half worn out at the end.)

2 Spare SPD Cleats (didn't use. But a SPD-pedal setup is worthless without cleats)

Muc-Off lube, small bottle (dry gravel and rain drinks lube for breakfast)

Thread and needle (for clothing or sidewall cuts)

Superglue (sealing sidewall repairs and glueing hands to the bars) 

Gaffer-tape (you know why...)   

 

Shelter & Sleeping

Hilleberg Akto (might have preferred a free-standing setup so I could pitch on rocks)

Western Mountaineering Caribou MF (too warm, temps was 15c at night)

Therm-A-Rest NeoAir X-Therm

Silk Liner

Sea To Summit Aero Pillow (worth all 60 grams) 

 

Misc

2 long + 2 short Voilé straps. Long ones used for fixing the Alpkit drybag to the handlebars, short ones for securing the downtube bidon on bumpy roads. Also very useful for securing the bike to handrails etc. on ferries so I could have peace of mind while enjoying the scenery.

2 Osprey 2L Drybag for electronics 

Mini Wire-Lock (only used when shopping in big cities to keep the biggest opportunist from running with my bike.) 

 

 

Norway: Bergen Burnout /  by Gustav Thuesen

An idea turned into reality. Very spontaneously. A road trip to Bergen to watch the cycling world championship? The perfect idea. A buddy and myself rented a car in Malmö and headed north. First through the rather mundane Swedish highways. Then into Norway. Cruising through the Norwegian landscapes is just pure joy for the eye. Sleeping in a car seat - not so much. But the view when you wake up makes you forget how badly you slept.
Fall was in full swing in the mountains and we were greeted by an explosion of orange tones.   

And then we watched a bit of bike racing. The norwegians had really put on a show!

Then we pointed the car back towards Malmö and crossed southern Norway which was beautifully covered in fall colors. 

I had brought the drone so of course I took it for a spin. There is some problems with the firmware causing the videofeed to be mostly all black so I shot this purely on feel. Turned out alright. 

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- Stay curious!

Stage 3: Grand Finale /  by Gustav Thuesen

After some time even an adventure becomes everyday. Daily routines and chores. When I have reached that point I have reached the purpose with a trip – to get away from everyday life. A new everyday has slowly taken over the old. One of my chores was breaking down camp every morning. Maybe it was the thought of another morning where I had to put on my dirty wet socks and then stick my feet into my dirty wet shoes that made me want not to get out of the tent. It could just as well be the fatigue of moving to a new place every day.

I think that experiencing and eating are bit the same. After a while you’re full and should take a break to “digest” otherwise you’ll feel sick. Usually a slow morning is enough for me – after a few hours I’ll begin to explore the surroundings anyway. The urge to see what is around the corner or over the hill top never ceases. In Norway there are a lot of hill tops to check out!

After having covered a lot of corners and hills I would occasionally zoom out on the map on my phone and realize how far I had travelled and see how close I was to the end. Actually It is a fairly shocking experience. Me? My legs? That far? And then the day comes when you actually reach the end. The dot on the map you have been fighting for. The fast days, the slow days, the hunger, the thirst, the tiredness, the wet socks, the two ingredient dinners  – everything.

I reached the end of the road a quiet sunny evening after a long day in the saddle. It was actually a bit anticlimactic. There was no welcome committee or champagne (which would have been ridiculously expensive in Norway). Only a few Norwegians out in their boats and a few seagulls fighting. In fact it was just another point on a map that happened to be the westernmost point of mainland Norway.     

Stage 2: the Border crossing. /  by Gustav Thuesen

6 days. 
Highlights from the stage: 

  • It was a milestone to cross the Norwegian border!

  • The hills are getting longer and steeper.

  • Feeling the solitude. Not that there aren't any people but I don't talk with them other than the occasional curious person who asks about my trip.

  • Deep: You go out on these journeys to realize an idea/dream (top of Maslow) and end up spending most time on the bottom of Maslow (food, shelter etc.). I guess this removes the noise in between (everyday life) which makes it special.

  • I spooked a badger which was crossing the road but hadn't heard I was coming. I could hear the claws scraping the pavement as it sprinted back into the dense forest.

  • I'm eating insane amounts of food.

  • I'm starting to feel a deep tiredness. The bright nights makes it hard to sleep as it is only dark from 00-0330 and combined with long days in the saddle it's taking it's toll.

  • First rain in a long time. To be continued...

  • Evening swims are the best after a long day!

  • Many places where I would just want to stop and then put time on hold.

  • Ate half a pack of butter for lunch (with bread).

  • Killed all life in the bay after washing my socks.

Bikepacking: The Söderåsen Traverse /  by Gustav Thuesen

I love bikes. I love backpacking. So, I love bikepacking as well.
It was late sunday afternoon when I was on the phone with a buddy. We both had a few days open in the calendar and decided to make the most of it. An hour later bags were packed and the adventure began.  

Arctic Adventure /  by Gustav Thuesen

We had already been sailing for 1.5 hours. We stopped to reevaluate. Only the sound of dancing water was present as the engine stopped. There was at least 2/3 of the way left. Could we make it? We had already run through a good chunk of the gas. So we decided to call it. Nobody wanted to be drifting around in the freezing cold arctic waters. If something happens then we would be royally f****d.
My original plan was to sail up to a river delta and then walk 30 km through the Greenlandic backcountry to a tourist glacier camp. This plan was now abandoned. Honestly I was a bit disappointed. On the way home we decided to stop and do some fishing instead. Which in Greenland means almost instant catch. Moods were up again.  

As I came home I had to come up with a new plan. I only had a few days to do some hiking so there wasn’t really time for thinking. After a night’s sleep in the comforts of a house I ventured out. My plan was simple: Follow the ice fiord until I find a spot I like. The plan worked really well as it was almost failproof. The ice fiord is so spectacular in itself that I could pitch my tent anywhere I wanted and love it. 

On my way I stopped several times to take in the view (and catch my breath). The ice fiord is unreal. It is like a giant bathtub filled with ice cubes. Really big ice cubes.
After a good hike I found a peninsula that caught my eye. A perfect places to pitch my tent. There wasn’t really a trail so I scrambled my way forward. The entirety of the area I was in had been covered in ice in the last ice age. This had really shaped the landscape so there wasbig cracks and canyons all over. This and the fact I was wearing a rather big backpack didn't speed up my progress.
To add to that distances in Greenland are always longer than one thinks. One can easily see 100 km because of the clean and dry air. So what I thought would take 15 minutes took up almost an hour before I was on the far tip of the peninsula. But as always it was worth the effort.     

I quickly pitched the tent and made my bed. The rest of the day was spent exploring and napping. I didn't really bother shooting photos during the day as I knew the quality of the light would improve x100 in the evening. And it did! 

As always around golden hour I found myself jumping around like a mad man to catch all the shots I wanted before the light disappeared. I Greenland though golden hour is more like golden hours due to the midnight sun. But light was slowly fading as the clock turned midnight. I was running around with my remote triggers back and forth adjusting the camera and then doing some modelling. When the light was mostly gone (it never really gets “dark” in the summer) I snug into my slightly too thin sleeping bag and went into dreamland.

As I woke up the entire fiord was covered in a blanket of fog. All different shapes and sizes poked out of the fog. The cold sleeping bag was soon forgotten as the magical view filled my mind. Was I really awake?

Denmark: Bikepacking North to West /  by Gustav Thuesen

Two wheels, to legs was all that carried me on my photographic adventure from the most northernmost point in Denmark to the westernmost point in Denmark. 3 days, ~500 km, 2 bags of peanuts, a few bottles of Thy Champagne (beer) and some very sunburned arms (remember to use sunscreen, kids).

See you out there!

Iceland: Behind the Shot /  by Gustav Thuesen

“Is this right?” we asked each other again. We looked at each other as the road had gotten increasingly impassable the last hour. Our (too) small rental car was struggling to move forward on the loose dirt track which we had been driving on since we left the ring road. We had been driving through a flat desertlike landscape the last hour hoping to find a place to pitch our tent for the night. It was getting late, but the Arctic summer sun was still up. We didn't want to turn around to drive another hour the other way. We were in the middle of flat, stony, nowhere. We continued forward. But then we had to stop. “4x4 only” a dusty sign said. We had already bought our tiny car to its limit. We were forced to turn around. As we drove back we decided to stop to reevaluate the plan. So we turned onto a byway we had passed earlier. We got out of the car to stretch our sore legs. Rather hopeless we walked around in the dusty gravel.


But then as a fatamorgana in a bad cartoon a flowing waterfall covered in lush green vegetation appeared. We had actually been driving next to this river almost all the time but it was down in a creek so we couldn't see it.
A weird stick with a blue marking was next to the river. And another one further down. A trail! This was our best chance to find a spot for the night. We quickly got our packs on and got going.


As we came around a corner what seemed to be an old river bed appeared. Perfectly flat with a view to the volcano Hekla. It was obvious: This would be our place for the night.
We quickly pitched the tent and heated some water for the freeze dried meals. Dinner at the world’s best restaurant - ok, maybe not foodwise but the view was epic.      

After dinner we played a game of cards waiting for the sun to set - which was fairly late due to the arctic summer. As we got closer to sunset i pulled out my camera and began to shoot some photos just to check different angles and compositions. When the sun was gone I jumped back to the tent to catch a bit of shut eye. But just a bit.
I had set my alarm clock to 2 AM as I wanted to get some “night shots”.
After 2 hours of sleep my alarm woke me up. I really wanted to stay in my cozy sleeping bag but at the same time I knew I would be missing out if I didn’t got up. So I pulled myself up, tied my boots and did the ever so slightly awkward crawl out of the tent. I was surprised that it wasn’t any darker. I could quite easily walk around on the uneven grass without the aid of a headlamp. Which was nice because I had left the headlamp turned on in the tent to light it up (which my buddy wasn't too satisfied with…).

There was a quiet breeze as I walked around with the tripod resting on my shoulder. Earlier I had spotted a location from where I could get a nice composition with the landscape and the tent. So I went there and shot a few photos. It was really incredible to just sit there taking in the view, listening to the water trickling and capturing the magic. But I finished the photo shooting quickly as I wanted to catch the sunrise too which meant that I had to get up before 4 AM.


I enjoyed the comfort of my sleeping bag for 1,5 hours until I had to get up again. My buddy was now slightly more pissed. I took a quick glance out of the tent to check the weather: The Sky was almost clear. Perfect. I got back in my clothes and tied my boots. The initial tiredness was gone as I made my way to the different spots. There was a cold breeze and I kept the feet moving to keep warm. Not soon after the sun came up over the horizon. Everything was now bathed in beautiful golden rays and I could feel the slight heat of the sun on my exposed skin.

A great memory of just being out there!

Want to see more of my photos from Iceland? Check out my photo series from Iceland.